Moving to Oregon

Things have been a little slow around the blog for the past couple of weeks if you hadn’t noticed.  This is mainly because my time has been taken up interviewing for a new job :-).  Between flying out, interviewing, and deciding whether or not I should take it, I figure I lost at least about a week’s worth of blog-time.

Anyhow, my wife and I decided that I should take the position – so we are moving to Oregon!  Read on to find out more and why I think this will be a great move for me and the fam.  I also discuss some of the potential challenges we think we’ll face as well!

Location, Location, Location

Let’s start with one of the biggest upsides we saw when considering moving to Oregon.  Simply put, Oregon is a beautiful place for folks that like the great outdoors and temperate weather.  With the Oregon Pacific coast, the Cascade mountains, multiple rivers, and all kinds of outdoor activities, it’s a great place for the nature lover.

This is What Might Happen to You if Moving to Oregon – Maybe?

While I’m not a huge outdoor kinda guy, I guess I have always aspired to be.  Living in Oregon will give us all a chance to put down the screens and enjoy more fresh air.  It was difficult to get enough outdoor time in Southern Georgia where 8 months out of the year is feels like it’s sweltering hot.  So, Oregon definitely gets bonus points for increased quality of life.

One other thing I’m really stoked about is that we’ll be just a little over an hour away from Portland.  So, I am sure we’ll take lots of family trips there to hang out and enjoy all this awesome city has to offer.  We can also check out all kinds of sweet vegan bakeries I’ve been hearing so much about!

Making an Industry Switch

Probably the most obvious reason we are considering moving to Oregon in the first place is because of my job opportunity.  With everything going on in my current company, I was going to end up in the chemical industry for the rest of my career.  As a mechanical engineer, this wasn’t necessarily how I wanted things to end up  :-).

The new position I am taking as Director of Manufacturing Operations seems like it is going to be a lot of fun and a real challenge.  It is in an industry that I do not have a lot of experience in (highly precise robotics and electronics), so I am a bit nervous about it.  I love a good challenge to put my brain to work, and I am sure to find it here!  As a nice bonus, the job has a pay increase of 10% vs. what I am making now.  While that isn’t a huge increase, there is a lot of potential upside.

What do I mean with “potential upside?”  Well, I will get the opportunity to obtain a bunch of shares of company stock.  This could eventually be sold for lots of moolah if everything goes well and the company successfully goes public.  If things don’t work out, then at least I’ll know I did my best and won’t regret going for it.

An Investment in Knowledge Pays the Best Interest

I attended some great schools when I was younger, and my good education really helped to shape my success.  I am very thankful that my parents sacrificed so much to ensure my sister and I could get a good education.  So, good schools were very important in our decision as to where we should relocate should an opportunity come up.  Our kids are both smart, and we want to do everything we can to keep them that way.

So, you can imagine my excitement when the excellent job opportunity came up, and the area has some of the best schools in the state!  The schools are all 9/10 r 10/10 according to GreatSchools.org.  There are also several great colleges within an hour or two if we choose to put down roots here.  What’s not to love?

What’s the Catch?

So, with all of these great factors, there has to be a downside, right?  It’s true – it’s not all rose-colored glasses for us as we move to Oregon.  There are a couple pretty big downsides to the whole decision.

First of all, my wife is probably going to be making ~20% less on her hourly income.  We are not sure why the wages are much lower than Southern Georgia.  We are guessing the lower wagers are due to larger supply of Physical Therapists in the area compared to  where we are coming from.

Another downside is that the company has a pretty standard 401(k) with a 3% match.  This is a big difference compared to the 9% match I was getting at my old job.  This will result in nearly $7,500 less in savings per year for our retirement :-(.

Likely the largest downside is that the houses nearby my job are EXPENSIVE!  The houses here are basically 3x the price than we are used to in Southern Georgia.  I guess we can say goodbye to our sub-$900 monthly payment.  Most of the homes here are going to be around $450k with a monthly house payment around $2,400.  That’s a huge change for us!

Throw all those financial downsides together, and it made for a really tough decision from a financial perspective as to whether or not we should go for it.  In the end, we decided that even if it wasn’t the best choice from a financial perspective, we should give it a shot because of all of the positives I mentioned above.

Wish us Luck!

So, I’m off to Oregon to start the new job tomorrow!  We will see what the future holds – we are all nervous yet excited.  Maybe we’ll come up with some creative ways to minimize the impact of some of our anticipated downsides.  Check out the future money reports to see just how everything works out from a financial perspective!

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Car Downsizing – How I Got a Free Corolla by Savings $700+ a year on gas!

I read about people downsizing their home all the time to save money.  Maybe the kids have grown up and moved out, or maybe you’re just looking to reduce your monthly expenses by getting into something smaller.

But what about car downsizing to save money?  Here’s how I went from a Camry to a Corolla and ended up saving more than $750 a year while getting a model that was 10 years newer!

 Money Saving Breakdown – Car Downsizing to a Corolla

• Difficulty (Super Easy/Easy/Medium/Hard/Expert): Hard
• Average Savings per Year ($/year): 1,043
• Time Required (mins): 1,200
• Savings for your time ($/hr): 52

The Method – Use the Frugal Guide for Buying a Used Car

Well, my current car is ~16 years old, and I figured it was time for a change.  There are a couple of cosmetic things wrong with it that will prevent it from passing inspection (cracked windshield on worn tires).  I figured now would be a good time to switch into a vehicle that gets much better gas mileage.  My current 1997 Toyota Camry V6 gets about 21mpg on the average.  If determined that if I could switch to a Corolla I’d save ~$750 a year in gas.

If you’ve been following along with my monthly reports, you’ll know that I’ve been looking for a used Corolla since May 2013.  Finding a good used car at a decent price is a real challenge.  I estimate that it’s taken about 20 hours of my time.  There definitely isn’t anything easy about this process.  After looking at four cars and scouring hundreds of Craislist posts, I finally ran across one and made the jump to purchase it (shown in pics above and below)!

I followed much of the advice that I put into the Frugal Guide for Buying a Used Car that I developed a while back.  I was able to find a great deal on a car and eventually bargained to get it at $2,200 less than Kelley Blue Book ($9,100 – $6,900)!  Here are a couple of interesting points on the car/negotiation:

• The 2007 Corolla car had been in two low speed accidents.  Because of this, the seller posted the price at $7,600.  I knew this info from Craigslist going in – I really appreciated that the seller was honest about this and priced the car appropriately.  There is absolutely no cosmetic damage, and the repairs used all new parts – so that is in some ways a bonus.
• The seller put this in the posting: “Moving and must sell this week.”  This was a huge flag that they were motivated to sell, and I could get a good deal.
• The seller also added this: ‘Asking $7600, negotiable.”  Again, another clue that they were open to accepting a lower offer.
• The front tires needed to be replaced.  I used this to help get a lower price.
• I used other negotiating tactics such as asking what is the lowest price they would be willing to accept, pointing out the shortcomings of the car, and using plain-old silence at key points to get the better deal on this car downsizing project.

Car Downsizing – The Detailed Calculations

Here is a detailed table on how car downsizing can save you a ton of money!  Here are the assumptions I made when preparing this cost/savings table:

• The Camry repairs would total $490 to pass inspection (cracked windshield, worn windshield wipers, new tires, replace two internal door handles).
• The price of the 2007 Corolla was $6,900 + $190 for new front tires.
• I can sell the Camry for $1,000 on Craigslist.  I subtracted this from the Corolla price ($6,900 + $190 – $1,000 = $6,090).
• Prices for Camry repairs would be $100 over and above the Corolla for first five years, then repairs would be $200 over and above the Corolla for years 6-11.
• Assume price of gas is $3.30 and increases 3% each year.
• Assume that I get $250 deductible comprehensive/collision car insurance for the first 5 years and that the price goes up 3% each year.
• Assume Camry gets 21mpg on average and the Corolla gets 31mpg on average.
• Assume I drive 16,000 miles a year.  This means I’ll get to 250,000 (assumed life of vehicle) with the Corolla in ~11 years.

At the end of the 11 years, I’ll come out having an additional $5,880.83 in my pocket!  This basically means that I get the Corolla for free and stash an extra fifty eight hundred dollars over the next 11 years.  Put another way, I’m getting a 12.6% rate of return on my money for no risk!  Not too shabby!

I calculated that the cash investment to upgrade to the Corolla is costing me ~$547 a year.  Because I’m saving $750+ a year on gas, it’s like I’m getting paid to drive a nicer, newer car  I’m not sure why I ever waited this long to explore car downsizing, but I’m glad I finally made the switch.

Final Thoughts

If it’s nearing the time for you to get a new vehicle or if you’re driving around town in something that doesn’t get 30+mpg, you should really consider car downsizing!  You can save yourself a ton of money over the long run, and it’s better for the environment  Has anyone here taken the car downsizing leap??  If not, what are you waiting for?

The post Car Downsizing – How I Got a Free Corolla appeared first on MoneyAhoy.

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How to get the most bang for your buck when buying a used car?

Are you in the market to buy a used car soon or do you have plans down the road to pick one up?  If so, then this frugal guide for buying a used car can save you hundreds and help you find a great vehicle!

Read on to learn more!

1) New vs. Used

I’m going to write this whole article assuming you already recognize the savings benefits of owning a used car versus buying a brand new one from the dealership.  You could go out and get a new BMW or Mercedes and windup paying $3,000+ per year, or you could go the frugal route and easily be able to get your annual costs for a vehicle below $500 a year (not including maintenance, gas, oil, insurance, etc.).  If you’re the flashy new car type, then this article may convince you to try a used car and save thousands of dollars a year in the process!

2) Don’t Buy From a Dealership

OK, a lot of folks feel like certified pre-owned from a dealership is the way to go.  They get some kind of reassurance that the car has had a once over, and it’s probably going to come with some kind of short warranty (most likely 30 days).  Some sites like CarMax tout a 125+ point 12-hour “reconditioning” to get the car ready for sale.

All of this is great, but is it worth paying potentially several thousand dollars more for this type of reassurance?  I really don’t think so.  Read on below to find out why.

3) What Type of Car to Plan On?

When buying a used car, one of the most important things to look for is long term reliability.  This will save everyone time and headache down the road if you make this your primary focus (we’ve already decided to give up on having the coolest and flashiest new car).

When going for reliability, I think it’s pretty much a given that Honda and Toyota have this down to a science.  My family has owned six different Toyotas over the years, and I have never had any major repair bills to deal with.  They really are top notch vehicles.  Here’s what you should be focusing on to keep repair costs to a minimum:

• Corolla / Camry / Sienna
• Civic / Accord / Oddessy

Anything else will probably be a waste of resources in the long run and not the most frugal decision.

4) How to Find the Best Deal

There is a bit of math here, so bear with me.  If you aren’t very math inclined, then you can try to skip this process and just use Kelley Blue Book to get your information.  To do this process justice, you’ll need to fire up your favorite spreadsheet program and Craigslist.

OK, here are the steps:

1. Determine how many miles you will drive each year (for me it is ~15,000 miles/year)
2. Assume an end-life number of miles for the vehicle (I use 250,000 miles).
3. Take 250,000 miles and subtract the Current Miles on the vehicle for sale.  This will give you the miles of vehicle-life left
4. Divide “miles of vehicle-life left” by number of miles driven per year
5. This will give how many years the vehicle will last you
6. Now, divide the asking price by the number of years the vehicle will last
7. This will give you dollars per year ($/year) to purchase the vehicle
8. Plot out the $/year versus the model year of the vehicle (see example plot below)
9. Add a trendline to get the “best-fit”.  Any vehicle that you can find below the line in good condition is a good deal
10. Target a model year you would like to focus on based on the $/year price range that fits your budget

Toyota Corolla: $/Year vs. Model Year

Here’s an example.  Say we have a 2004 Toyota Corolla with 93,100 miles for $7,200 on Craigslist.  The miles of vehicle-life left = 156,900.  156,900 Divided by 15,000 miles/year = 10.4 years.  $7,200 / 10.4 years = $688 / year.  You can see this point on the plot above for 2004.

In my area, it appears that I can get a 10 year old Corolla (2003 model) for ~$496 / year. This is a better deal than even some of the older cars.

If you calculate the cost per year out in a spreadsheet for 20-30 cars available through Craigslist and plot the results, a couple of things will jump out at you:

• In my area, the sweet spot for Corollas seems to be the 10-12 year old vehicle.
  • A very new or really high mileage Corolla will cost 2-3+ times as much per year vs. a ~10 year old one
  • There are several 15 year old Corollas with high miles that will actually come out a worse deal than the 10 year version
  • The CarMax cars (pre-owned dealership – shown in salmon color above) are all way above the average line compared to what you can get from a private owner (the 2003 car is double the cost each year!)

Now that you know how to pick out a good vehicle that will give you the best bang for your buck, let’s move onto some tips around making sure you avoid a dud.

5) The Evaluation and Test Drive

You don’t have to shop at a dealership to find a vehicle in good condition!  There are several ways you can make yourself more comfortable that the car is OK before making the decision to purchase it.  These include:

• Get a CarFax report (you can get unlimited reports for $55)
• Take the car to a trusted mechanic WITH the seller for a once-over ($50-$100)
• Take it for a test drive.  Look for the following:
  • Brakes work well
  • Accelerate quickly to check for smooth shifting between gears
  • Car stays straight when letting go of the steering wheel
  • No vibrations in the steering wheel when moving
  • No funny or loud sounds while driving
  • Open hood while parked and check for funny sounds
  • Funny smells (burned oil smell) or smoke
  • Check for any engine pinging/knocking/dieseling after car is turned off
  • Lights / brights / blinkers / AC / heat / seats / windows / wipers / doors / locks / controls & instruments / radio / glove box all function properly
  • Push down on all four corners of the vehicle, it should stop bouncing in under 2 seconds
  • Windshield has no cracks
  • A more exhaustive list can be found here
• State inspection sticker is up-to-date (if applicable)
• Inspect all previous maintenance records to ensure routine maintenance was being performed on schedule
• Have a friend that knows a bit about cars come along with you to check it out
• Ask the seller what issues have occurred with it
• Look for a low number of previous owners (1-3, anything more could be fishy)
• Look where it was parked for signs of oil leaks on the pavement/gravel
• Lift up trunk carpet to check for signs of rust (flood damage)
• You get a feeling from the seller that they are honest
• The reason for selling the car seems legit

Make a mental checklist of the above and running through it when you evaluate the vehicle.  This will help you to feel better that the car you’re interested in is worth your hard earned money.  Most dealerships will only warrant the car for 30-days, buy running through the exhaustive list above, you’ll have the same degree of confidence and potentially save thousands!

6) Check the Consumables

In addition to the items above, you’ll also want to check all of the normal “consumables” to assess their condition and determine when they were last replaced.  These include:

• Timing belt and other belts
• Hoses
• Brake pads and rotors
• Tires
• Transmission fluid
• Oil change

Don’t worry if you don’t know how to check these yourself, your mechanic will look them over for you.

If you find any issues in any of these areas, that is OK.  You just need to ensure you factor this information into your offer.  If it will take $300 for all new tires because the ones on the car are in bad shape, then negotiate for this!

7) Negotiating Tactics to Close the Deal

There are a couple of things to keep in mind here to really get the best deal you can on your used vehicle:

1. Be willing to walk away!
2. I repeat, be willing to walk away!!!
3. Time is your friend, never rush into a decision or put time constraints on yourself or you will almost certainly miss the best deal.
4. If something seems too good to be true or you get a bad vibe from the seller, then trust your gut and move on.
5. Portray to the seller that you are a reluctant buyer.  Do not seem over anxious to purchase the vehicle.  You want to portray that you are always on the fence.
6. Come prepared with the rough fair value range the vehicle should be priced in.  You should already know this based on the analysis you did above in step #4, or from a site like Kelly Blue Book.
7. Use everything you can find wrong with the car as a bargaining chip.  This could be cosmetic (scratches), mechanical (window doesn’t roll down), or consumable (hoses need to be replaced).
8. Appeal to a higher authority: “this sounds great, but I’ll have to check it over with my wife to make sure she’s OK with it.”  This gives you an out if you’re not interested, or a way to negotiate for a lower price when you come back the next day.
9. Remember, negotiating takes time and makes many folks uncomfortable, BUT it is a way to literally save yourself hundreds of dollars per hour of your time if you are willing to step outside your comfort-zone for a brief period of time.

How I Used these Tips to Save $2,200 On My Used Car

I recently put all of these tips to good work to find a 2007 Corolla for $2,200 less than Kelley Blue Book.  Read all about How I Got a Free Corolla here.

Summary

If you’ve followed all of this frugal guide for buying a used car, then you should be able to find a high quality used car at a great price that will last for years!  Good luck, and let me know if you have any upgrades to the guide!

The post Frugal Guide for Buying a Used Car appeared first on MoneyAhoy.

For more saving money, making money, and investment ideas go to www.MoneyAhoy.com

A win-win solution?

Welcome to the third and final part of our series (Part-3) on how to negotiate cheapest Cable, Phone, and Internet Service Rates.  If you somehow missed Part-1 or Part-2 you can check them out here and here.

Time to Regroup

As you’ve seen I did get to the $15 off per month mark, but that is a little short of my goal. I would like to roll the dice again to see if I can get a nicer “retention specialist” who will work with me a little bit.  I’ve reviewed the first two videos and watched for the mistakes I made.  I’m pretty confident with my refined notes to guide me through the process I will be able to meet my goal of $45/month.  Let’s see how I do in the video below!

Woohoo!!!  I met and exceed the savings goal that I was looking for.  I went from $65/month to $35/month for a annual savings of $360.  If you look at the time I took, this is like saving $675/hour!!!  I did end up downgrading service from 20Mbps to 6Mbps, but I haven’t noticed any performance issues with this at all.  Overall, I am very happy with where things came out.  Below, I’ve included some additional bonus negotiations tips and the notes I used going into the negotiation to help me stay on track.  Feel free to download this and modify it to help you before you call up your provider(s).

More Bonus Negotiation Tips

• It can work well to use the “higher authority” trick.  Example: That sounds great… I’ll just have to check with my wife/husband, hold on a minute…  <long pause> Hmm… he/she says that is still too high.  What else can we work out?
• Try NOT to ask Yes/No questions.  Be vague and use something like: “Gee, we are so close, what else can we do?”
• Make use of the “nibble”.  If you reach agreement for a lower price and you have closed the deal, ask them for other small favors afterwards such as: extend the lower pricing for a longer term, refund last month’s difference, refund any change of service fees, etc.
• If you are not happy with the deal you were offered after giving it your best shot, call back and try again with someone completely new if you have the time.  If you are determined, sometimes on the fourth or fifth try you will make that breakthrough you’ve been looking for.  You’ll see in the third video how this worked for me even though other two guys wouldn’t budge.
• Be aware of diminishing returns.  You can usually get a quick $15-$20 off with almost no work.  If you are looking for more, be prepared to fight for it and spend more time.
• Make the whole process into a game and see how low you can get them to go.  Have fun with it and try not to take it so seriously!!

Just to wrap things up, this whole three part series took me much longer than I thought to compile (probably 12 hours total), but I think you have a very good plan that you can follow to get yourself some big savings in about 15-30 minutes of your time.  Please post in the comments if you plan to try this or let us know the results if you were able to negotiate for the cheapest rates!

Click here for notes on negotiating that I used specifically for these calls.  You use this as a guide to fill out and use for your own negotiating!!

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For more saving money, making money, and investment ideas go to www.MoneyAhoy.com

Things Are Getting a Bit Rough with Paco…

Welcome to Part-2 of our series on how to negotiate cheapest Cable, Phone, and Internet Service Rates.  If you somehow missed Part-1, you can check it out here.

Recap

If you have been following along with me,  then you already know that I am not doing so hot with Paco at Comcast after accidentally hanging up on Larry.  I’ve been able to get Larry/Paco down an easy $15/month ($180/year) so far, but I am looking for a little more of a discount.  However, Paco is proving a difficult “cookie to crack.”

Apparently, we are paying for the “Performance Level” internet service.  This is marketing-speak for 20Mbps download.  In doing a little bit of quick google searching, this seems to be overkill for what we need.  We typically stream Netflix to one TV at a time, so a 5Mbps service should be able to stream in 1080p quality and then some.  Before moving to our new house I believe we were on a slower rate plan that worked well for us, but I am not sure.

So, let’s watch the Part-2 video and see how I fare against Paco!  Be sure to check out the bonus negotiating tips I put together after watching the video.  These are sure to help you out with your negotiating!

Alright, you can see I didn’t really get anywhere with Paco.  That’s OK.  You may have to call your cable, phone, or internet service company multiple times until you get someone that will work with you.  I still have the energy to give this another try with someone else.  Join me in Part-3 where I go for the knock-out punch!

Some Bonus Negotiating Tips:

• Stay polite and friendly, most of the folks that you will be talking to are just doing their job.  They can be compensated based on how many people they retain and how high they keep your rates.  If you piss them off that can just stonewall you.
• Have a goal in mind before you start.  This should be based on their current pricing offers for new customers, rates for smaller packages, competitor’s rates in the area, rates friends or neighbors are paying, etc.
• If you have been a customer for more than a year and/or have always paid your bill on time, be sure to point this out repeatedly.
• Don’t threaten to cancel service right away, this can backfire if used too early and you don’t really intend to cancel…  Keep some of your card close to the vest!
•  Use silence to your advantage.  Sometimes staying quiet for 30 seconds or more can work wonders.

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Learn to Negotiate with the Professionals

Do you wish you could save money on your existing monthly Cable, Phone, or Internet service?  I’ll show you a quick way to negotiate cheapest Cable, Phone, and Internet Service rates!  In the video, you’ll see how I was able to save $360 a year (or about $675 per hour of my time)!  I only get part of the way there in Part-1 of this series…  I only have internet service, so you could save even more if you have a package of services! Read on for more info:

Money Saving Breakdown

• Difficulty (Super Easy/Easy/Medium/Hard/Expert): Easy
• Average Savings per Year ($/year): 360
• Time Required (mins): 30
• Savings for your time ($/hr): 675

In this three part series, I’ve made a couple videos where I call up Comcast (my Internet provider) and negotiate for cheapest internet service.  You can use the same tips to negotiate for cheapest cable or phone service as well…  We signed up for new internet service ~1.5 years ago when we moved into our new house at $29.95/month for the first six months.  From there, it went up to $64.95 a month, yikes!!  My goal is to get Comcast down to $45/month.

Here are Some Details on How to Negotiate for Cheap Rates:

Who: Anyone can do this in about 20 minutes!  You will need to know the account holders information before you get started.  Generally this is:

• Name, Address, Phone #, Last 4 digits on Social Security Number

What: You will be calling the service provider(s) and negotiating for a better deal.

When: Call any time you have 30mins to an hour to devote to this project.  You will probably not need all of this time, but it is good to have it blocked out just in case.

Where: I suggest calling from a quiet place with minimal interruptions.  Depending on how much practice you have with negotiations, this can be very important to “keep you in the bargaining zone.”

Why: Most TV, Phone, or Internet companies will over-charge existing customers just because they can get away with it, and most people do not take the time to bargain for lower rates.  I have called service companies several times to change to a competitor or simply remove the service all together.  In all instances the “retention specialists” offered me rates 20-30% off within the first five minutes of the conversation.  You can make this work to your advantage to save you money!

How: Check out the YouTube video below to see what I tried.  Having some quick notes in front of you before calling can really keep you organized for the negotiation if you do not think quickly on your feet.

Money Saving Video  –  Part-1

Watch the Part-1 video below to see how well I do a negotiating for the cheapest internet service!

As you can see, I was not able to hit my goal.  The “retention specialist” offered me a $15 discount right off the top with very little work.  This brought my price from $64.95 a month down to $49.95 a month.  Good, but not great…  This equates to $180 of savings per year for 18 minutes of my time.  Put another way, this is an hourly savings of $600/hr!!!!  I would have done even better than that, but I accidentally hung up on the first Comcast rep

In Part-2 of our series, I will show another video where I go toe-to-toe with the second Comcast Rep.  I will also give you some bonus negotiating tips that I learned from what worked and what didn’t work.

How about you, do you have a spare 15-minutes?  Is anyone ready to call up their cable/phone/internet company and negotiate for the cheapest rate?  Let us know in the comments how you did!!

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